The Beast - Land Rover 101 Forward Control rebuild

<html><table style="text-align: left; width: 100%;" border="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td align="center" valign="middle">\n<img id="bigimage" src="images/menu/BeastAll.jpg"></td><td><span style="cursor:pointer"> \n<img id="Bodywork" src="images/menu/MenuBodywork.jpg" onmouseover="changeimage ('Bodywork','MenuBodyworkBold.jpg','bigimage','BeastBodywork.jpg')" onmouseout="changeimage2('Bodywork','MenuBodywork.jpg','bigimage','BeastAll.jpg')" onclick="story.displayTiddler(this,'Bodywork',1)">\n<img id="Chassis" src="images/menu/MenuChassis.jpg" onmouseover="changeimage('Chassis','MenuChassisBold.jpg','bigimage','BeastChassis.jpg')" onmouseout="changeimage2('Chassis','MenuChassis.jpg','bigimage','BeastAll.jpg')" onclick="story.displayTiddler(this,'Chassis',1)">\n<img onmouseover="changeimage('Suspension','MenuSuspensionBold.jpg','bigimage','BeastSuspension.jpg')" onmouseout="changeimage2('Suspension','MenuSuspension.jpg','bigimage','BeastAll.jpg')" id="Suspension" src="images/menu/MenuSuspension.jpg" onclick="story.displayTiddler(this,'Suspension',1)">\n<img onmouseover="changeimage('Axles','MenuAxlesBold.jpg','bigimage','BeastAxles.jpg')" onmouseout="changeimage2('Axles','MenuAxles.jpg','bigimage','BeastAll.jpg')" id="Axles" src="images/menu/MenuAxles.jpg" onclick="story.displayTiddler(this,'Axles',1)">\n<img onmouseover="changeimage('Hubs','MenuHubsBold.jpg','bigimage','BeastHubs.jpg')" onmouseout="changeimage2('Hubs','MenuHubs.jpg','bigimage','BeastAll.jpg')" id="Hubs" src="images/menu/MenuHubs.jpg" onclick="story.displayTiddler(this,'Hubs',1)">\n<img onmouseover="changeimage('Wheels','MenuWheelsBold.jpg','bigimage','BeastWheels.jpg')" onmouseout="changeimage2('Wheels','MenuWheels.jpg','bigimage','BeastAll.jpg')" id="Wheels" src="images/menu/MenuWheels.jpg" onclick="story.displayTiddler(this,'Wheels and Tyres',1)">\n<img onmouseover="changeimage('Brakes','MenuBrakesBold.jpg','bigimage','BeastBrakes.jpg')" onmouseout="changeimage2('Brakes','MenuBrakes.jpg','bigimage','BeastAll.jpg')" id="Brakes" src="images/menu/MenuBrakes.jpg" onclick="story.displayTiddler(this,'Brakes',1)">\n<img onmouseover="changeimage('Gearbox','MenuGearboxBold.jpg','bigimage','BeastGearbox.jpg')" onmouseout="changeimage2('Gearbox','MenuGearbox.jpg','bigimage','BeastAll.jpg')" id="Gearbox" src="images/menu/MenuGearbox.jpg" onclick="story.displayTiddler(this,'Gearbox',1)">\n<img onmouseover="changeimage('Engine','MenuEngineBold.jpg','bigimage','BeastEngine.jpg')" onmouseout="changeimage2('Engine','MenuEngine.jpg','bigimage','BeastAll.jpg')" id="Engine" src="images/menu/MenuEngine.jpg" onclick="story.displayTiddler(this,'Engine',1)">\n<img onmouseover="changeimage('Radiator','MenuRadiatorBold.jpg','bigimage','BeastRadiator.jpg')" onmouseout="changeimage2('Radiator','MenuRadiator.jpg','bigimage','BeastAll.jpg')" id="Radiator" src="images/menu/MenuRadiator.jpg" onclick="story.displayTiddler(this,'Radiator cowling',1)">\n<img onmouseover="changeimage('Exhaust','MenuExhaustBold.jpg','bigimage','BeastExhaust.jpg')" onmouseout="changeimage2('Exhaust','MenuExhaust.jpg','bigimage','BeastAll.jpg')" id="Exhaust" src="images/menu/MenuExhaust.jpg" onclick="story.displayTiddler(this,'Exhaust',1)">\n<img onmouseover="changeimage('Steering','MenuSteeringBold.jpg','bigimage','BeastSteering.jpg')" onmouseout="changeimage2('Steering','MenuSteering.jpg','bigimage','BeastAll.jpg')" id="Steering" src="images/menu/MenuSteering.jpg" onclick="story.displayTiddler(this,'Steering',1)">\n<img onmouseover="changeimage('Electrics','MenuElectricsBold.jpg','bigimage','BeastElectrics.jpg')" onmouseout="changeimage2('Electrics','MenuElectrics.jpg','bigimage','BeastAll.jpg')" id="Electrics" src="images/menu/MenuElectrics.jpg" onclick="story.displayTiddler(this,'Electrics',1)">\n<img onmouseover="changeimage('Turbo','MenuTurboBold.jpg','bigimage','BeastTurbo.jpg')" onmouseout="changeimage2('Turbo','MenuTurbo.jpg','bigimage','BeastAll.jpg')" id="Turbo" src="images/menu/MenuTurbo.jpg" onclick="story.displayTiddler(this,'Turbo / Intercooler',1)">\n<img onmouseover="changeimage('Model','MenuModelBold.jpg','bigimage','BeastAll.jpg')" onmouseout="changeimage2('Model','MenuModel.jpg','bigimage','BeastAll.jpg')" id="Model" src="images/menu/MenuModel.jpg" onclick="story.displayTiddler(this,'3D Model',1)">\n</span></td></tr></tbody></table></html> \n<script> \n\nwindow.changeimage = function(img1,ref1,img2,ref2) \n {ref1="images/menu/"+ref1;ref2="images/menu/"+ref2;\ndocument.getElementById(img1).src = ref1; document.getElementById(img2).src = ref2; } \n\nwindow.changeimage2 = function(img1,ref1,img2,ref2) \n {ref1="images/menu/"+ref1; document.getElementById(img1).src = ref1;} \n</script>

I wanted to have a "3D Cutaway" menu so I had to draw the Beast in 3D. I used [[SketchUp|http://www.sketchup.com/]] from Google. It's fast and accurate enough for this sort of thing and free, of course. Still, it took far too long to draw. You need to be bored, mildly obsessive and have a bit of spare time, to model a vehicle in this much detail! \n\nEach major component is drawn on a different 'layer' in ~SketchUp. This made it easy to show or hide the various bits and export them as flat images that 'line up' perfectly. I did a bit of work in Photoshop after that, but not much was needed. The 3D menu runs on some very simple javascript that just swaps images as you move the cursor around.\n\nThe final ~SketchUp model was over 30 Gig. Complex curves take up most of the space. The wheels and tyres are about a Gig each.\n\nIf you have a fast connection, you can download some self extracting models, that you can view in 3D. The whole model is too big so I've done various combinations of components in each download. Click on the links below the following images and save the exe. I used the [[eDrawings|http://www.edrawingsviewer.com/pages/products/GoogleSketchup.html]] exporter to generate these 'self extracting' models. The viewer is bundled with the 3D model in the exe, which is why the files are so large. It does a fairly good job but it does lose the colours of a few components.\n\n[img[Chassis etc.|images/3D model/chassis_etc_2.jpg]]\n\n[[Chassis, suspension and axles (4.9 Mb)|images/3D model/chassis_etc_2.exe]]\n\n[img[Engine and Gearbox|images/3D model/engine&gearbox.jpg]]\n\n[[Engine and Gearbox (5.3 Mb)|images/3D model/engine&gearbox.exe]]

The axles on the 101 are the sturdy Salisbury type with Dana 60 differentials.\n\n[img[Axles|images/axles and diffs/axles-01.jpg]]\n\nI needed to change the diff ratios to help deal with the lower revving diesel engine. I wasn't prepared to rebuild the diffs myself. I bought the crown and pinions and found a Land Rover gearbox mechanic who did them for me.\n\n[img[Crown and pinion|images/axles and diffs/Crown-and-pinion.jpg]]\n\nI sand blasted the axles and diffs myself, taking care to protect various sensitive bits. \n\n[img[Blasting axle|images/axles and diffs/Blasting-axle.jpg]]\n\nThe hollows below the leaf spring mountings are excellent water traps! \n\n[img[Axle rust|images/axles and diffs/Axle-rust.jpg]]\n\nAfter blasting I painted them with [[Zinga|http://www.zinga.be/indexEN.htm]]. This is the best zinc paint I could find. \n\n[img[Axle with zinga|images/axles and diffs/Axle-zinga.jpg]]\n\nAfter that they got a chassis compound treatment and were sent off for rebuilding.\n\n

Here is a description of how I supported the ambulance body and removed the ‘rolling chassis’. Some adaptation would be required for doing this with a Radio Body or Vampire as these are narrower than the Ambulance. This should only affect how the body is supported though. I did almost all the work alone so I needed a method that was safe and simple.\n\nSeparating the body from the chassis and removing the ‘rolling chassis’ was surprisingly easy. There were loads of bolts to undo as well as some wiring and brake/clutch lines to disconnect. It took a while but there was nothing really tricky involved. As I was doing a complete rebuild I needed to support the body for some time while I worked on everything, so I needed a cheap and sturdy solution. Simple steel scaffolding worked fine and supported the body for about a year until reassembly.\n\nThe basic steps I used are as follows: ( I did this all a while back so please forgive any errors in the detail!)\n\nI measured how much the body needed to be raised so that the ‘rolling chassis’ could be rolled out forwards once separated. I seem to recall thinking the radiator would be problematic, so I removed it first. This left the oil filler pipe on the engine as the highest point. When I finally put the rebuilt rolling chassis back under the body I did it with larger diameter wheels and the radiator in place. Worked fine, so the initial worries about the radiator were unfounded.\n\nI raised the whole vehicle up to the required height. I did this with a trolley jack and supported the 101 at this level with four 6 ton axle stands, under the axles. They were at their maximum extension which lifted the vehicle just high enough.\n\nI then built a simple scaffolding structure around the raised vehicle. I had to keep the path clear, where the rolling chassis would be removed forwards. I then had to ‘connect’ the body to the scaffolding. Suitable strong points on the body work need to be used. This is easy on the ambulance as the body is wider than the wheels. This meant I could put supports under the sides of the body and still have enough space to roll the chassis out. On a radio body or vampire you would need to use some simple brackets so that the scaffolding does not get in the way of the wheels. I did this on the front to support the cab. As you can see in the photograph below, I removed the front cross member (front bumper). This allowed me to connect the front of the cab to the scaffolding with some brackets I welded up. Not worth describing as the pictures do a better job. \n\n[img[Cab brackets|images/body/Cab-brackets.jpg]]\n\nThere are suitably strong points on the body where the chassis outriggers are. On the ambulance it was simply a case of putting a tube under the body, just wider than the outriggers as there is suitable steel on the body there, to take the weight. I made them the right length by putting a narrower steel tube inside the scaffolding tubing to make a simple ‘telescopic’ support. To keep it at the correct height I simply drilled a hole though the narrower tube at the right height and put a bolt through. This meant that it could no longer slide down into the wider tube. I welded a simple bracket onto the top of the telescopic poles so that I could bolt them to the body once the chassis was removed. I used the original chassis bolts for this. This made sure that the body wouldn’t move on the scaffolding. \n\nTo make things easier you could get a bit more sophisticated with your scaffolding. I would definitely do this if I ever did a job like this again. All you need are enough (probably 6) adjustable ‘screw jack’ base plates that go under scaffolding to handle uneven ground. (See picture below). These would make your life a whole lot easier, so it would be worth trying to get some. Once the body is separated from the chassis you could even use the ‘screw jacks’ to raise or lower the body. They are not really designed for this sort of lifting, but the 101 body is light and with a bit of grease to help them turn, you should have no problem. Judicious use of a high lift jack to raise the body might be a good idea. Then the ‘screw jacks’ could be extended without them being under load. I did a quick internet search for ‘scaffolding screw jack’ and found that you can get them easily and cheaply.\n\n[img[Screw jack base|images/body/Screw Base.jpg]]\n\nThere are a few things that need to be disconnected between the body and the rolling chassis, apart from the thirty or so bolts that hold the two together. Most of my bolts came off ok, but some of them sheared even though I put liberal amounts of ‘creeping’ oil on them to loosen them overnight. Not an issue really as I replaced them all. \n\nYou will need to disconnect the clutch and brake lines at the front where they come out of the cab and head down to the chassis. Draining fluid is a bit messy and bleeding the brakes on reassembly is a pain. Do yourself a favour and get a vacuum bleeder. I got a good plastic one off the net and it worked very well. Tape up the open ends of the lines to avoid getting dust or water into them.\n\nThere is also some wiring and other things than need removing, but not that many. I recall disconnecting the following:\n\nWires to central diff lock.\nFuel tank gauge wires.\nVacuum tubing for brake servo.\nBowden cable to High/Low gearbox ratio selection lever.\nAccelerator cable.\nUm, err. Can’t think of any others but the repair manual has a full list.\nOh, the steering box/column. That would get in the way!\nCan’t remember how the wiring to the back lights worked but I don’t recall any issues. Mind you I did replace the whole wiring harness so perhaps I didn’t care!\n\nOnce everything was disconnected, I started lowering the rolling chassis down to disconnect it from the body. I did this carefully by supporting first the rear and then the front diff with a trolley jack and lowering the axles stands by one ‘notch’. I could then slowly lower the rolling chassis by a couple of centimeters using the trolley jack, until the axles rested on the stands again. This meant the body and rolling chassis could be separated in a slow and controlled manner. It also uses the weight of the rolling chassis to do the work. Make sure all the bolts are undone! I missed two and couldn’t work out why it wasn’t working. I didn’t try to lower the rolling chassis by large amounts. Just did a ‘notch’ at a time, back and front until it was down. Then I bolted the body to the scaffolding with the brackets I had made. \n\nAfter that it was simply a case of rolling the chassis forwards to clear the bodywork and scaffolding. This was easy with a block and tackle connected to the tow hitch on my car. Again, nice and slow.\n\nOnce the rolling chassis was clear I added another support to the rear of the bodywork to make sure it was really stable. I wanted to be able to work inside the body while it was supported so it had to be safe.\n\nPutting the body back at the end of the rebuild was simply a reverse of the above process and was very quick. Of course, everything was clean and all the bolts were new. Make sure you use good quality bolts and nuts. The bolts must have at least an 8.8 rating. This is stamped on the head of the bolt. Going higher is not necessary and is costly. (There are bolts on the suspension that are rated higher, but that is rather more critical). If the bolts you are considering using don’t have a rating on the head, then don’t use them. They are probably made of cheese. Get them from a good hardware store rather than a DIY type place.\n\nThere are various shims used to take up space between the cab and the chassis. It's worth marking these when you remove them while undoing the bolts. The rear body has some nylon fabric as a spacer between the chassis and the body frame. I don't particularly like it as I think it holds water. To avoid future rust, paint the relevant bits of the body well and soak the nylon fabric in a suitable silicone lubricant before reassembly. \n\nFeel free to get in touch if you have any questions.\n\n

When we got the Beast it was still a Military Ambulance with almost all the original equipment. The purists will cringe of course, but I ripped it all out! It took a lot longer than anticipated to strip the interior. I must have drilled thousands of rivets! Of course it was built with the standard Land Rover / Military approach: If two rivets will hold it, let's use eight. \n\nTo do a proper rebuild, the body had to be removed from the chassis. To do this, I raised the whole vehicle using a trolley jack and axle stands. I then built a simple scaffolding structure around it, supporting the bodywork with telescopic tubes. Over 30 bolts connecting the bodywork to the chassis were removed and the chassis, with everything else attached, was lowered back down to the ground. For more details on how this was done, click [[ here|Body Removal]].\n\n[img[Body on scaffolding|images/body/Scaffolding-02.jpg]]\n\nThere was just enough clearance between the oil filler cap and the bodywork to roll the chassis out.\n\n[img[Just high enough|images/body/Scaffolding-03.jpg]]\n\n[img[Rolling the chassis out|images/body/Scaffolding-04.jpg]]\n\nThe roof must have been leaking for some time as the rockwool insulation was soaked. All the interior ceiling and wall paneling was removed and discarded. The large red cross on the roof was removed and the holes re-riveted. The original fitters signed their work in putty!\n\n[img[Roof writing|images/body/Roof-writing.jpg]]\n\nThe cab was completely dismantled, leaving only the windscreen still attached to the main body work. \n\n[img[Cab removed|images/body/Cab-off-01.jpg]]\n\nThe steel framework of the rear ambulance body was still in pretty good condition. There was some surface rust where the wooden floors were bolted to the framework. Once the floors were removed the framework was stripped where accessible and repainted. The inside of the tubing and other inaccessible areas were sprayed with a penetrating rust protection product. \n\nAll the steel components in the cab were then blasted and hot dip galvanised or painted with [[Zinga|http://www.zinga.be/indexEN.htm]]. Another rust trap was found in the cab framework behind the seats. Here, water and mud thrown up by the front wheels causes the cab frame to rust. \n\nThe cab frame and panels were reassembled while attached to the rolling chassis. This meant that the chassis worked as a jig, ensuring that the cab parts fitted correctly. The assembled cab was then removed and reattached to the main bodywork. Took a bit of doing but worked out ok in the end. \n\n[img[Cab rebuild|images/body/Cab-rebuild-01.jpg]]\n\n[img[Cab rebuild|images/body/Cab-rebuild-02.jpg]]\n\nThe partition behind the rear seats in the original ambulance configuration was removed and moved forward to increase the space in the back. \n\nWhen the bodywork and the rolling chassis had been rebuilt they were put back together. I was concerned that the engine might not fit under body anymore as the new tyres were of a larger diameter, but it was ok.\n\nThe rolling chassis was put back under the body and jacked up into position.\n\n[img[Reassembled|images/body/Reassembled-02.jpg]]\n\nThe body was then bolted back onto the chassis. Was only a two hour job, which was a pleasant surprise. I had made sure that I had drilled the bolt holes after the galvanising so they were the correct diameter again. \n\nI needed new seats and had to find some that were very low as they are fitted above the front wheels. If normal seats are used you would sit far too high. Someone in the 101 club suggested Smart Car seats. I found some in Brussels and they fit perfectly. Nice side support for off road driving too.\n\n[img[New seats|images/body/Seats.jpg]]\n\nI had to fit inertia reel seatbelts to comply with Aussie road safety standards. Apparently these were legislated on in the late 70's so my vehicle had to have them too. I didn't mind as they are a whole lot better than the originals. I bought a set of generic seatbelts that did the job perfectly.\n\n[img[New seats|images/body/Seatbelts.jpg]]\n\nThere wasn't enough space to fit the reels on the floor so I had to place them higher and recess them in new aluminium 'side panels'. Everything has to be strong so a piece of steel flat bar connects the reel to the original mounting point near the floor. The top 'pulley' is bolted to a piece of steel angle behind the panel. This in turn is bolted to aluminium reinforcements on the door frame and partition. \n\n\n\n\n

The original brake servo was replaced with one from a Defender. I originally got the larger servo which doesn't fit under the 101 dash! When viewed side by side you can easily see the difference:\n\n[img[Brake servos|images/brakes/Defender-servos.jpg]]\n\nThe mounting bolts on the replacement servo have the same pattern as the original 101 servo but the whole lot has been rotated 90 degrees. As the yoke on the end of the central 'piston' can't be rotated to compensate, the whole servo needs to be mounted 90 degrees rotated too! This is easy to do as the picture below illustrates.\n\n[img[Brake pedal mods|images/brakes/Brake-servo-mods-notes.jpg]]\n\nTwo strips of 3 mm steel were made to clamp the pedal frame to the servo. They need notches in them to accommodate the shape of the pedal frame.\n\nAs can be seen in the picture, the yoke on the new servo forces some changes to be made to the top end of the brake pedal. The new yoke is 17 mm wide so some steel needs to be cut off the pedal to allow it to fit. I cut it too small and then filed it to size at 17mm. Lastly, the hole in the yoke is made for a 12 mm pin in the brake pedal. The 101 brake pedal has a 10 mm pin so a bush is required to take up the space. Inner diameter 10mm, outer diameter 12mm, length 17mm. All in all a simple modification to do.\n\n

The brakes on the 101 are adequate if very well maintained but do require a lot of attention. I decided to replace them with disc brakes from Zeus. We couldn't afford to do all the wheels so I only replacing the front brakes. I've been pleased with their performance. The braking is smooth and progressive and there is a lot more stopping power than before. Mind you, the old brakes were not in very good condition.\n\nThe disc brake kit from [[Zeus Engineering|http://www.zeus.uk.com/land-rover.php]] was well made but the calipers and their mounting brackets needed some grinding to get them to fit inside the wheel rims. \n\n[img[Calipers|images/brakes/Calipers-01.jpg]]\n\nThe sturdy caliper mounting brackets are bolted to the front swivel housing.\n\n[img[Caliper mount|images/brakes/Caliper-mount.jpg]]\n\nThere was serious interference though, so all the steps in the bracket had to be ground off.\n\n[img[Caliper mount modified|images/brakes/Caliper-mount-modified.jpg]]\n\nTo fit the discs to the hubs, the existing studs need to be removed. With some careful drilling and a good whack with a hammer they came out easily enough.\n\n[img[Stud removal|images/brakes/Stud-drilled.jpg]]\n\n[img[Stud removal|images/brakes/Stud-removed.jpg]]\n\nThe replacement studs extend through the hubs to attach the disc assembly.\n\n[img[New Studs|images/brakes/New-studs.jpg]]\n\nI learned that the best way to tighten studs is to fit two nuts on the top half of the stud, tightened against each other. The upper nut can then be used to tighten the stud in place. The two nuts can be easily removed without loosening the stud.\n\n[img[Disc|images/brakes/Disc-on-hub-01.jpg]]\n\n[img[Disc|images/brakes/Disc-fitted-01.jpg]]\n\nHere you can see the disc and caliper on the front right wheel. The caliper covers the oil filler plug which means you have to remove them to refill the swivel housing with oil. I need to modify the little bracket at the top of the swivel housing that holds the brake line so that I can release the line easily. Then the flexible rubber line will allow the caliper to be removed without having to rebleed the brakes.\n\nI didn't modify the rear brake system much. I removed the brake apportioning valve as the vehicle would never be as light as an empty GS, so the valve had become redundant. In addition to this, the valve makes bleeding the rear brake system even more difficult and I also wanted to use the space it took up under the vehicle for the new exhaust.\n\n[img[Disc|images/chassis/Rear-valve-removal.jpg]]\n\nHere you can see where the mounting for the apportioning valve has been removed.\n\nThe rear brake drums were blasted, taking care to protect the internal faces, and painted with high temperature paint. The slave cylinders and brake shoes were replaced and all other parts got the sandblasting and [[Zinga|http://www.zinga.be/indexEN.htm]] treatment.\n\n[img[Rear brakes|images/axles and diffs/Stub-and-brakes.jpg]]\n\nI had to replace most of the original steel brake lines as well as all the flexible hoses between the chassis and axles.\n\nThe [[master cylinder|Master Cylinder]] was pitted so that had to go. I replaced the [[brake servo|Brake servo replacement]] at the same time.\n\nAs with all original 101s, the two brake fluid reservoirs on the dashboard had been destroyed by years of exposure to the sun. The 101 club has well priced replacements.\n\nThe push rod for the hand brake had rusted, so a new one was manufactured from a suitable steel rod.\n\n\n

The 101 chassis is relatively simple ladder construction with two rigid box section beams and various cross members and outriggers. The most visible difference from the Land Rover Defender and Series chassis being that it is flat, without the 'wheel arches'. The front cross member is removable and forms the front bumper of the vehicle.\n\n[img[Rolling chassis|images/chassis/Bare-rolling-chassis-01.jpg]]\n\nClick the following links for more info:\n\n[[Chassis rust|Chassis rust]]\n\n[[Chassis modifications|Chassis modifications]]\n\n[[Chassis galvanising|Chassis galvanising]]\n\n\n

Galvanising the chassis was a priority if I wanted the vehicle to last. Of course this meant that everything had to come off it.\n\nRemoving the old chassis compound was probably the worst job of the whole rebuild. It's easily done where it is brittle as it can be shattered with a hammer and removed with a chisel. Where it is still pliable it's another story and much scraping, swearing and noisy hammering with a needle descaler ensued. \n\nHere is the chassis with all repairs and mods done, awaiting sand blasting. You can see the holes drilled in the bottom of the rear cross member for drainage as well as the missing diagonal braces on the inside at the rear.\n\n[img[Bare chassis|images/chassis/Bare-chassis-02.jpg]]\n\nMy sandblaster was not up the job of stripping the paint so I hauled the chassis off to a commercial blaster in Flanders.\n\n[img[Loading trailer|images/chassis/Trailer-01.jpg]]\n\nI looked at both hot dip and cold galvanising. I was concerned about warping with hot dip, but could not find anyone in Belgium to electroplate the chassis. \n\nAfter sand blasting I brought it home and removed a large amount of sand from the inside of the chassis. I blasted it out with compressed air. Well worth doing as sand will float on the molten zinc and give a rough finish. The galvanisers will not be happy with you either as you'll contaminate their zinc bath!\n\nI had the chassis dipped at [[PAS|http://www.pas-ets.be/PAS/indexPAS_NL.html]] galvanisers in Flanders. They had done various chassis's before and had no problems with warping. I drilled a few holes to allow trapped air and pooled zinc to escape during the immersion process but missed one place on the central cross member. A puddle formed there that's a couple of centimeters thick. Won't be rusting there in a hurry.\n\n[img[Pooled zinc|images/chassis/Pooled-zinc-03.jpg]]\n\nAll in all I was very happy with the hot dip. The chassis didn't warp at all. When I replaced the body on the chassis, all the bolts matched the holes perfectly and the whole structure is still perfectly flat.\n\n[img[Galvanised chassis|images/chassis/Galvanised-01.jpg]]\n\nI left the rubber suspension bushes, together with their steel sleeves, in the chassis during the hot dip. The rubber was burned a bit with the heat but it didn't effect the zinc plating around them. I could then remove the old bushes and replace them with [[Polybushes|http://www.polybush.co.uk]] without any zinc reducing the diameter of the mounting holes.\n\nI wanted to paint over the zinc and the guys at PAS gave me these instructions: Leave the chassis out in the rain for a week, (not difficult to do in Belgium) then scrub it down with a weak vinegar solution to remove the oxide layer. After that it can be painted with a primer designed for zinc. There are various options but I had some Hammerite primer from non-ferrous metals and tried that. I am not a fan of Hammerite products but the primer worked very well and was a fraction of the price of other options. \n\n[img[Rolling chassis primed|images/chassis/Rolling-chassis-primed-01.jpg]]\n\nAfter priming, I coated it with black chassis compound. At some stage I'll probably wax-oil the inside of the chassis just make sure it will never rust. Serious overkill I know, but it won't hurt\n\n\n

Apart from cutting out the rusted sections and covering them with plate steel, I modified the chassis in several ways. \n\nAs I was replacing the thirsty V8 with a diesel, I had to remove the existing engine mountings and weld new ones in place. \n\n[img[Engine mount|images/new engine/Mount-tacked.jpg]]\n\nHere is the new left side mounting, tack welded in place. The position of the old mounting is clearly visible. The holes for the mounting rubbers were drilled later, after marking their position with the engine suspended above them.\n\nThe mounting for the steering box was modified and strengthened to allow a [[power steering|Steering]] box to be fitted. \n\nI had to cut a chunk out of the front right outrigger, so I reinforced it with a 3mm steel strip on top. The corner on the cut out section is a little too sharp for my liking. Will keep an eye on it as I think it'll be a bit of a stress concentration. I beefed up the mounting for the steering box too. The 3 mm mounting plate is tack welded here, awaiting a proper job.\n\n[img[Plate tacked|images/steering/Plate-tacked.jpg]]\n\nUpgrading the [[brakes|Brakes]] included the removal of the mounting for the rear brake apportioning valve.\n\n[img[Plate tacked|images/chassis/Rear-valve-removal.jpg]]\n\nThis allowed me to use the space behind the middle cross member for the new [[exhaust.|Exhaust]]\n\nThe diagonal braces for the rear cross member were removed on the inside to allow more space for a water tank. They were replaced with reinforcing in the corners which would strengthen the chassis but would not be as rigid as the original bracing. \n\n

The chassis to prone to rust in two main areas. The rear cross member is a very effective mud trap and rusts from the inside. Water and dirt thrown up by the rear wheels gets trapped and remains wet. Most 101 restorations require work on this area and the 101 Club even supplies full replacement rear cross members. \n\n[img[Rear crossmember rust|images/chassis/Rear-crossmember-rust-01.jpg]]\n\nThe bottom of the rear cross member has no holes in it so it cannot drain. Here the rusted sections have been cut out.\n\nThe following pieces were laser cut from 3 mm steel and welded over the rear cross members. I drilled holes in the bottom strip to let any trapped water out in future. I also cut an extra hole for the rear lights, rather than use the original bracket on the ambulance.\n\n[img[Laser cut patches|images/chassis/Laser-cut-01.jpg]]\n\nThe second area for rust is where the front outriggers, located just behind the front wheels, join the main beams of the chassis. A smaller trap on the underside catches water and mud from the wheels.\n\nCutting out the rusted section.\n\n[img[Chassis rust|images/chassis/Chassis-rust-01.jpg]]\n\nCleaning it up . . . \n\n[img[Chassis rust|images/chassis/Chassis-rust-02.jpg]]\n\nReplacement piece welded in place.\n\n[img[Chassis rust|images/chassis/Chassis-rust-03.jpg]]\n\n

\nBackground: #ddcc99\nForeground: #000\nPrimaryPale: #998855\nPrimaryLight: #664411\nPrimaryMid: #221111\nPrimaryDark: #410\nSecondaryPale: #ffc\nSecondaryLight: #fe8\nSecondaryMid: #db4\nSecondaryDark: #841\nTertiaryPale: #998855\nTertiaryLight: #EEC591\nTertiaryMid: #841\nTertiaryDark: #8B7355\n

\nYou can reach me at the following email address:\n\n<script>\nvar name = "beast";\nvar domain = "arewethereyet.eu";\ndocument.write(name + '@' + domain );\n</script>\n

'3D Menu'

Swapping the V8 for a diesel engine made a lot of the electrics redundant. Rather than adapting the old wiring harness I decided to completely replace it. The original wiring complied a little too well with the 'Lucas Prince of Darkness' dictum for my liking. I drew a [[new wiring diagram|Wiring Diagram]], based on the original 101 diagram and a Defender 300 Tdi diagram. \n\nTaking out the old wiring was not unlike gutting a fish. Just smelled different!\n\n[img[Dash gutting|images/electrical/Dash-gutting-01.jpg]]\n\nI removed the electrical panel from the passenger foot well and placed the new relays and fuses behind the passenger seat, where the original air filter had been. \nEverything is run off relays now, the way it should be. \n\n[img[Relay box|images/electrical/Relay-wiring-01.jpg]]\n\nI ordered most of the parts from [[Vehicle Wiring Products|http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk/]] in the UK. Not the cheapest, but convenient. I sourced the box on the web. Wasn't easy to find one just the right size but I finally succeeded in the Netherlands.\n\n[img[Switch box|images/electrical/Switch-box-01.jpg]]\n\nI used seven core 'trailer cable' running through the chassis to connect the new electrical 'box' to the dash and lights, back and front. There's a connection box on the chassis at the rear and all external connections are waterproof. Finally the Beast has colour coded wiring instead of it all being yellow like the original!\n\nI used Siemens VDO instruments and Hella switches and had a new dash panel laser cut from aluminium plate and bent to shape. \n\n[img[New dash|images/electrical/Dash-new-02.jpg]]\n\nThe multi connectors I used allowed me to connect the electric box with all the relays directly to the new dash. This meant I could bench test the whole system fully before installing it in the vehicle.\n\n[img[Bench test|images/electrical/Bench-test.jpg]]\n\nI used two six volt batteries in series to test the wiring, instead of a large car battery. This meant that any short circuits would not burn any fuses or wiring during testing. No problems were found during bench testing and I installed the wiring in the 101 and tested it again with the small batteries. I found one short circuit as I had got wires crossed on the starter relay. Once that was fixed it all worked. Rather satisfying really!\n\nAs we were anticipating cold weather in various mountains and in Siberia I fitted an Optima spiral wound battery which can supply power in extreme cold. Doubt this will be an issue in Australia though. The battery is also high and dry behind the passenger seat.\n\n

A thirty year old 3.5 liter V8 is not what you need in an expedition vehicle. It's thirsty and temperamental and good quality petrol is not always easy to find. A turbo diesel is a far better option if you choose the right one. You get rid of all the electrics associated with petrol engines for starters!\n\nI wanted a modern diesel engine with similar power and torque to the original V8. However, I wanted an 'old fashioned' mechanical fuel injection system which can be serviced anywhere. The modern 'common rail' injectors aren't particularly partial to poor quality fuel either. The Landy 300 Tdi was the obvious choice, especially as other 101 owners had already done this swap successfully. In addition, [[Zeus Engineering|http://www.zeus.uk.com/land-rover.php]] still had custom bell housings in stock which allow the 300 Tdi to be fitted to the ~LT95 gearbox. \n\nI looked into various ways of getting a reconditioned 300 Tdi engine but wasn't satisfied with any of them. A 101 club member then contacted me with an offer of a new International HS 2.8L TGV engine. He had ordered two from [[Prins Maasdijk|http://www.landrovermotor.nl/indexframehs28.html]], an importer in the Netherlands, and only needed one. I was delighted as the HS 2.8 is an even better match than the 300 Tdi and would still fit the custom bell housing. The power and torque are approximately 10 percent higher than the original V8.\n\n[img[Old and new|images/engine removal/old-and-new.jpg]]\n\nThe old V8 and the new HS 2.8 TGV turbo diesel. The air compressor can be seen on the old engine on the front left (front right on the picture). This was standard for the 101 Ambulance.\n\nThe diesel engine is manufactured by [[MWM International|http://www.nav-international.com.br/default.asp?su=3&pa=series&idSerie=44&idLinha=12]] in southern Brazil. They produced all the 200 and 300 Tdi engines for Land Rover before BMW took over. The HS 2.8 TGV can be described as an 'upgraded' 300 Tdi engine. It's the smallest of what are called 'Powerstroke' diesel engines in the US. \n\nThe HS stands for High Speed which was good news. Diesel engines rev lower than petrol, so replacing the V8 with a diesel necessitates a change to the high ratio gears in the transfer box. With the HS 2.8 revving to 4000 rpm, this change, together with a change to the [[crown and pinion|Axles]] gears in the diffs would mean a good road speed for the vehicle at 2800 rpm. Leaving the low ratio gears unchanged keeps the low gearing the 101 is renown for. The increased ratio in the diffs is countered by the better lower speed torque characteristics of the diesel. Torque in the HS 2.8 peaks at 1400 rpm, so in low ratio, the climbing ability would be excellent. \n\nHere's the spreadsheet I used to get an idea of what ratios I needed in the diffs and the transfer box high range. [[Ratios and speed.xls|images/gearbox/Ratios and speed.xls]]\n\nAll in all it worked out well and is very drivable. Reverse is a little fast, so I use low ratio if I need to reverse really slowly.\n\nThe engine was duly collected from the Netherlands and test mounted to the gearbox to mark the position of the new engine mounts. To do this, the old engine needed to come out first.\n\n[img[Out with the old|images/engine removal/Removing-old-01.jpg]]\n\nThe front of the gearbox was carefully supported from above so that it could be returned to it's original position once the V8 was removed. The old engine was then supported from a hoist and the mountings and bell housing bolts removed. After that it could be removed. The old engine mounts weren't doing much to keep the V8 in place!\n\n[img[Out with the old|images/engine removal/Old-engine-rubber.jpg]]\n\nThe new Zeus bell housing was fitted to the gearbox and the new engine bolted on. As the gearbox was supported in it's original position I could tell where the new engine mountings needed to be. \n\n[img[In with the new|images/new engine/Close-fit-01.jpg]]\n\nIt was a tight fit, with the diesel only just missing the front shock absorber mountings and the cab frames. In the end I raised the engine slightly which meant the front of the gearbox was about a centimeter higher than with the original engine. \n\nI had designed new engine mounts and had them made. With the engine in place I marked their position on the chassis and removed the engine. A wooden jig held the mounts accurately in place while I tack welded them before taking the whole chassis to a local welder for professional welding. \n\n[img[Jig for mounts|images/new engine/Jig-for-mounts-01.jpg]]\n\nOnce removed after the test mounting the engine sat in a box in the workshop for ages while the chassis, axles, diffs, wheels and suspension were rebuilt. \n\nAfter [[fitting the clutch|Fitting the clutch]] to the flywheel I bolted the gearbox, bell housing and engine together and mounted them in the rolling chassis as a single unit.\n\n[img[Installation|images/new engine/Installation-02.jpg]]\n\nIn place at last:\n\n[img[Engine mounted|images/new engine/Mounted-04.jpg]]\n\nAs the fan on the new engine was not in the same position, relative to the radiator, as the fan on the original engine, a [[new cowling|Radiator cowling]] had to be made.\n\nThe [[engine cover|Engine Cover]] also required a bit of work.\n\n

The engine cover had to be modified as it no longer fitted over the intake manifold of the new engine.\n\n[img[Modified engine cover|images/general/Cover-4.jpg]]\n\nThe 'recess' on the left had side was removed and covered with a suitable piece of aluminium.\n\nThe insulation on the inside of the cover was past it's prime, so I replaced it with acoustic and thermal insulation.\n\n[img[Acoustic damping laminate|images/general/Acoustic-1.jpg]]\n\nThis is a sandwich of 6 mm thick acoustic foam and 0.5 mm thick lead foil. I bought the foam and lead and made the laminate using contact glue. Came out at about a third of the price of buying the ready made laminate from 'auto-acoustics' suppliers. I ordered a sample from a supplier first to see what they used and then sourced the components myself.\n\nPanels of the acoustic laminate were made to size and sealed in sturdy plastic film. These were then glued in place inside the engine cover.\n\n[img[Acoustic damping inside cover|images/general/Cover-1.jpg]]\n\nThe lead makes the panels quite heavy so I added aluminium braces to support them.\n\n[img[Thermal insulation|images/general/Cover-2.jpg]]\n\nThermal insulation was then glued in place.\n\n[img[The finished cover|images/general/Cover-3.jpg]]\n\nAluminium tape was used to finish off the edges of the thermal insulation. Ended up being a neat job. The cab remains noisy and hot though and will require some additional thermal and noise reduction measures!\n\n\n

I found a guy in Overijse, just outside Brussels who makes custom exhausts in Stainless steel. He normally works on old sports cars, so the 101 was a bit of a change for him. He did an excellent job which should last for a decade or two. The initial section from the turbo is lagged to try and keep things cool nearby. The turbo makes things wickedly hot on this side of the engine though. Will have to put in some additional insulation to keep the electrics and a few other things cool.\n\n[img[Exhaust|images/new engine/Exhaust-04.jpg]]\n\nThere's a flexible joint next to the gearbox:\n\n[img[Exhaust|images/new engine/Exhaust-02.jpg]]\n\nThe silencer is just behind the central cross member, where the brake apportioning valve used to be.\n\n[img[Exhaust|images/new engine/Exhaust-01.jpg]]\n\nI later fitted a bare aluminium plate above the silencer, using the bolts on the mounting brackets. It sits about 2 cm below the floor. This should reflect most of the heat and together with the air gap above, prevent the exhaust from over heating the plywood floor panel!\n\n[img[Exhaust|images/new engine/Exhaust-plate.jpg]]\n\nAfter a year, the rubber parts that support the exhaust have seriously degraded, despite the vehicle only having 5000 km on the clock. Will have to find some replacements to add to the tool box!\n\n

The input shaft of the ~LT95 gearbox has a smaller diameter than the corresponding hole in the center of the HS 2.8 flywheel. The Zeus bell housing came with a steel sleeve that fitted the hole in the flywheel but was still far too large for the gearbox shaft. I got a friend to turn a second sleeve in oilite to form a self lubricating bearing.\n\n[img[Bush and spacer|images/new engine/New-bush-and-spacer.jpg]]\n\n[img[Bush fitted |images/new engine/New-bush-fitted.jpg]]\n\nHere the sleeve and oilite bush are pressed into the flywheel.\n\nI used the largest clutch I could find that would fit without any modifications to the flywheel. (This was the 9.5 inch FRC2297). \n\n[img[Centering clutch|images/new engine/Centreing-clutch.jpg]]\n\nI made a simple centering tool to hold the clutch plate in place during fitting, using the wheel spanner and some tape. It worked perfectly! \n\n[img[Clutch tool|images/new engine/Clutch-tool.jpg]]\n

The 101 uses the rugged ~LT95 gearbox which was originally installed in the Range Rover.\n\nThe story of the gearbox is a sorry saga. I really struggled to find anyone who was willing to rebuild an ~LT95. Synchromesh on first and second were rather tired. In the end I took it all the way to the UK to a friendly chap with a gearbox reconditioning business at a small airfield outside Birmingham. I made the mistake of telling him that I wouldn’t actually install the gearbox for another six months, without realising that the guarantee would have expired by then. He informed me a few days later that the gearbox was completely shot and almost all the parts needed replacing. I had no option and had it all done at great cost. Only after driving the vehicle for the first time did I realise that nothing had been fixed. He had only cleaned the outside of the gearbox and changed the high ratio gears in the transfer box. You live and learn!\n\n[img[Rip off|images/gearbox/New-and-shiny.jpg]]\n\nLooks new and shiny but inside it was anything but! In the end I replaced it with a reconditioned box I found.\n\nTo decide on what I had to do to the high range gear ratios to ensure a suitable driving speed with the new engine, I calculated driving speeds in all gears given the engine revs, existing gear ratios, diff ratio and tyre diameters. From this I could calculate what ratios I needed in the high range gears in the transfer box. Worked out well although reverse is a little faster than I would like, thanks to the new diffs. I tend to use low ratio if I need to reverse slowly.\n\nHere's the spreadsheet I used to get an idea of what ratios I needed in the diffs and the transfer box high range. [[Ratios and speed.xls|images/gearbox/Ratios and speed.xls]]\n\n\n

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This website has been written using the excellent [[TiddlyWikki|http://www.tiddlywiki.com/#open:HelloThere]] software. It is basically a simple [[Wiki|http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wiki]] that runs entirely on javascript imbedded in the page.\n\nThe 3D Menu has links to the main sections of the website but there are many more 'topics' that can be reached by clicking on the [[links|How to use the website]] within each page. External links launch in a new window.\n\nWhen you place your mouse over the contents of a 'topic' you will see buttons appear to the left of the 'topic' title. Click these to close that section or jump to another open 'topic' etc.\n\nYou can search the whole website by using the search box at the top of the screen. Just type in your search term and press enter.\n\n

The wheel hubs were completely stripped, blasted, [[Zinga|http://www.zinga.be/indexEN.htm]] painted and reassembled with new seals and bearings where necessary. \n\nHere the blasted hub parts are awaiting degreasing and zinc painting.\n\n[img[Hub parts blasted|images/axles and diffs/Hub-parts-blasted.jpg]]\n\nThe rear hubs, reassembled on the rear axle with new brake bits.\n\n[img[Rear hub and brake.jpg|images/axles and diffs/Rear-hub-and-brake.jpg\n]]\n\n

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This website is about the rebuild of a Land Rover 101 Forward Control Ambulance.\n\nWe bought ‘The Beast’ as it is now referred to, in the UK in 2004 with the intention of converting it into a camper for a year long trip to Lake Baikal in southern Siberia. While I rebuilt the vehicle in Belgium and my wife learned to speak Russian, the trip never materialised. We have now moved to Melbourne in Australia and have shipped the 101 there. It’s perfectly suited for exploring the Outback!\n\nI did a pretty comprehensive rebuild of the 101. I stripped the whole vehicle down, galvanised the chassis and cab frames, replaced the engine and gearbox, put in new brakes and electrics, had the diffs rebuilt and renovated the bodywork.\n\n[[Why did I choose a 101?|Why did I choose a 101?]]

Here are a few links that might be of interest. Please contact me if you find any that are dead.\n\n[[Andre's awesome 101 rebuild site|http://www.aeware.nl]]\n[[The Roving Dentist|http://www.rovingdentist.com]]\n[[The Birmabright Brotherhood|http://www.birmabrightbrotherhood.org]]\n[[Beastly Adventures|http://www.beastlyadventures.com]]\nPim's site\nZeus\nZinga\nPrins Maasdijk\nVehicle wiring products\nCable dudes - accelerator cable\nPAS Galvanisers\n101 Club\n101 Club forum\n\n\n\n

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The original brake master cylinder was pitted, so I replaced it with a standard Defender master cylinder on the new brake servo.\n\n[img[New brake master cylinder|images/brakes/Servo-and-master.jpg]]\n\nThe fluid reservoirs on the Defender attach directly to the master cylinder which doesn't suit the 101. Some cunning mods are required to connect the brake lines from the dash mounted reservoirs to the master cylinders. Andre, from the Netherlands had just done the same modification. (His awesome 101 rebuild is documented [[here|http://www.aeware.nl]].) A friend of his turned a couple of custom nylon parts for me.\n\n[img[Nylon adapters and mounting bracket|images/brakes/Master-2.jpg]]\n\nA simple piece of aluminium angle holds the nylon adapters in place.\n\n[img[Nylon adapters and mounting bracket|images/brakes/Master-1.jpg]]\n\nI used fuel tubing and hose clamps to connect the alloy brake lines to the reservoirs and master cylinder. This is the low pressure side of the brake system and constitutes little risk. Andre had tested the effect of brake fluid by leaving a piece of fuel tubing immersed for a year. There was no discernible damage.

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A new radiator cowling had to be made to fit the fan on the new engine.\n\nI decided to make it from fibre glass and made a wooden plug in situ, between the radiator and the fan. \n\n[img[Cowling|images/new engine/Cowling-02.jpg]]\n\nOnce removed from the engine the plug was finished:\n\n[img[Cowling plug|images/new engine/Cowling-plug-01.jpg]]\n\nA two piece mound was then made from the plug. Here you can see the first half of the mould on the plug.\n\n[img[Plug and mould|images/new engine/Plug-and-mould-01.jpg]]\n\nThe mould was in turn used to make the final cowling. My workshop was so cold that the resin would not cure. I solved the problem by placing it in a large bag and piping in hot air, courtesy of the Ebesbacher heater from the ambulance! The cold meant that I could work with the resin for as long as I wanted but once heated it cured well.\n\n[img[Plug and mould|images/new engine/Cowling-cure.jpg]]\n\nA lot of work for a single cowling but the end result was excellent. Here it is mounted to the radiator. I only found out when I started the engine for the first time that the radiator had developed a leak while sitting in my garage. I had to remove the whole lot and get it re-cored. The lesson? Get the radiator pressure tested before you put it back in!\n\n[img[Finished cowling|images/new engine/Cowling-finished.jpg]]\n\nI used Gates radiator tubing to connect the engine, radiator and later the heater. Of course, no parts are standard so I had all connectors made from stainless steel tubing by the guy who made the exhaust. Expensive but they will last. Replacing tubing is easy too as they are all standard, straight lengths.\n\n

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Land Rover 101 Forward Control rebuild

The Beast

http://www.arewethereyet.eu/Beast/

The standard steering on the 101 relies on a pitifully inadequate steering box and the beefy shoulders of a squaddy driver. It is pretty much impossible to turn the steering wheel if the vehicle is stationary. Not great for parallel parking! Power steering was a must if I ever wanted my wife to drive the vehicle. \n\nI looked at the various solutions that people had previously chosen, when fitting power steering to 101s. The most common is to fit a Range Rover PAS box but I didn't like the amount of modifications required to the chassis to achieve this. I fitted a steering box from a Sherpa type van instead. My PAS box came from a Post Office LDV van that was being scrapped. This required minimal [[mods to the chassis|Chassis modifications]] and will also allow me to easily refit the original steering box if I have problems with the power steering.\n\n[img[PAS box|images/steering/PAS-box-02.jpg]] \n\n[img[PAS box|images/steering/PAS-box-05.jpg]] \n\nNot the best pic, but it shows how long the 'shaft housing' is. There was a bit of surface rust on the PAS box but nothing serious. It's a pretty solid unit.\n\n[img[Power steering layout|images/steering/Layout.jpg]]\n\nI got custom high pressure hosing made to join the hydraulic pump on the engine to the PAS box. I gave them the old piping from the PAS box so they could match the threads, as well as the connector on the high pressure outlet of the hydraulic pump. The new connections to the PAS box use a soft copper washer for sealing, rather than the internal 'domed' seals on the original piping. Works well. \n\nThe brake fluid reservoir is the original LDV one. I struggled to find a good place to mount it. Ended up beside the engine, on the right, but it's not easy to get at. It would probably be better to put it further back where there is more space.\n\nThe only unforeseen problem was that the drop arm on the replacement steering box was far too short. Unfortunately I noticed this too late! I ended up getting a friend in South Africa to manufacture a custom drop arm from tool steel. This wasn't an easy task. If I were to do it again I would make sure I used a PAS box that had an arm of a suitable length in the first place! It goes without saying that the strength and reliability of the drop arm is of critical importance. \n\n[img[Drop arm|images/steering/Drop-arm-02.jpg]]\n\nThe welding hides a lot of careful design. The steel around the splined hole from the original drop arm was cut to form a stepped insert in the new drop arm. The step makes axial movement between the insert and the arm impossible in one direction. The nut and washer on the main shaft of the PAS box will prevent any axial movement in the other direction. For rotational strength, there are six keys which prevent the insert rotating in the arm. The welding keeps everything in place but will take no load. it's not easy to weld tool steel to forged steel, so a specialist welder was required. I put the twist in afterwards with some localised heating in a furnace and judicial application of force at a local wrought iron works, taking care not to temper the steel.\n\nI was very grateful for modern design technology and helpful friends as I could model the drop arm in 'Solid Edge' (a 3D CAD package) in Belgium and e-mail it to South Africa for manufacture!\n\n[img[PAS box|images/steering/Hose-1.jpg]]\n\nThe newly painted PAS box mounted, with the hoses connected.\n\n[img[PAS box|images/steering/PAS-fitted-01.jpg]]\n\nThis is a view from the drivers seat down onto the fitted PAS box, with the floor removed. You can see that the length of the shaft on the PAS box means it interferes with the main box section of the chassis. The circular hole I cut in the side of the main chassis member can be seen. Makes it a bit fiddly to fit the drop arm but nothing serious. You can also see the twist in the new drop arm - basically the same as the original 101 arm. Note that some of the bracing in the front bumper needs to be trimmed so that it doesn't interfere with the front on the PAS box.\n\nOn the original steering, the column and box are integral. The new PAS box connects to the steering column via two universal joints on either end of a short shaft. This is a useful arrangement as it allows you to position the column where you need it. It also means that the bottom on the steering column needs a bracket to hold it in place. I fabricated one from steel. \n\n[img[PAS box|images/steering/Column-bracket.jpg]]\n\nIt bolts to the front of the floor and supports the bottom of the steering column. \n\nThere were a few lessons learned that are worth noting:\n\nThe position of the mounting bolts on the PAS box is not ideal. The extra plate I welded on needs to extend down a few centimetres below the existing mounting to accommodate this. The rearmost bolt hole is the most problematic as it coincides with the side of the outrigger as can be seen in the picture below. You need to cut part of the outrigger away to allow space to put a nut on. Make sure you cut away enough to allow a spanner to fit around the nut!\n\n[img[Plate tacked|images/steering/Plate-tacked.jpg]]\n\nThe central hole in the mounting plate is an oval rather than a circle. This is required to fit the PAS box as in needs to go in at an angle and then get rotated into place. I temporarily refitted the original steering box and drilled the necessary holes in the new mounting plate. This means it is relatively straightforward to replace the PAS box if I ever need to. Would just need to rig a simple piece of tubing to recirculate the hydraulic fluid.\n\nThe large 'washer' on the drop arm that is bent to ensure the nut doesn't come loose needs to be taken into account if you make a custom drop arm. Mine has a pin to stop it rotating on the drop arm and is bent as usual around the nut.\n\nThere is an adjustment on the PAS box that controls the neutral position. It's the little threaded 'shaft' that is in the centre of the hexagonal plate on the side of the housing. You loosen the lock nut and adjust the shaft with an allen key. When I originally connected the hydraulics to the PAS box and started the engine, the PAS box turned the drop arm fully forward, turning the wheel steering too. Can be dangerous if you are not expecting it as it's very powerful. I had to turn the adjustment to it's limit before the box was neutral without input from the steering wheel. This may not be an issue if you haven't dismantled the PAS box, but I took mine apart first to see if it was ok inside.\n\nThe [[swivel housings|Swivel housings]] also needed some attention.\n

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The old rubber suspension bushes were replaced with [[Polybushes|http://www.polybush.co.uk]]. Removing the old bushes was a serious pain, even with a home made 'extractor'. Worked out well in the end though.\n\nThe front leaf springs are getting tired and sit very flat. I will need to get a new set made. Now that we are in Australia I have a few options for getting custom springs and shock absorbers fitted.

On the 101 Salisbury axles, the swivel housings are welded, rather than bolted to the axle. This makes them difficult to replace, so any pitting has to be repaired.\n\nI carefully ground the rust out with a Dremel and an abrasive rubber disc.\n\n[img[Swivel pitting|images/axles and diffs/Swivel-rust-01.jpg]]\n\nI then degreased carefully and filled the pits with [[Zinga|http://www.zinga.be/indexEN.htm]] or epoxy.\n\n[img[Swivel pitting|images/axles and diffs/Swivel-rust-02.jpg]]\n\nI carefully sanded this down until it was flush. We'll see with time which of the two was the most effective.\n\n[img[Swivel pitting|images/axles and diffs/Swivel-rust-03.jpg]]\n\n\n\n

I was lucky enough to have a garage and adjacent workshop in which to work. Literally freezing in winter and baking in summer but at least I had space. I also managed to borrow a lot of the tools I used.\n\nApart from the normal hand tools such as spanners, socket wrenches, screw drivers, hand drill etc. etc. the following proved essential:\n\nA good compressor. For sandblasting, volume, rather than pressure is important. I used a two cylinder compressor from Axminster.\nA sandblaster. I bought a cheap one on eBay and it was fine. The nozzles wore out fast though. \nA sand blasting booth. I made one from MDF, with simple filters. I used the 101 Ambulance fans for extraction. For larger jobs I just worked outside.\nA high lift trolley jack. I used one from Machine Mart that worked fine.\nLots of axle stands, preferably adjustable and as high as you can get. I had six but four would have been ok.\nFor moving heavy objects like engines and gearboxes, you need a strong trolley with good castor wheels. Don’t skimp! I broke several sets of wheels before buying some serious ones at a jumble sale!\nA crane would have been useful but I got by quite happily with a frame I made and a simple block and tackle.\nIf you are working alone, like I was, you will find a range of clamps very useful!\nA torque wrench.\nA big rubber hammer! Marvelous.\nA solid work bench with a good vice.\nAn angle grinder.\nA bench mounted drill. \nA bench grinder. \nA MIG welder. I wasn’t prepared to weld the engine mounts but did most other jobs myself. An automatically darkening mask proved a worthwhile investment.\nA good breathing mask. I had a 3M one with various filter attachments for dust and organic fumes.\nA face ‘shield’ for use while grinding.\nStrong gloves, also for grinding. Knuckles are softer than a grinding disc!\nSteel capped boots.\nA needle descaler for getting rid of rust and chassis compound.\nA nibbler came in useful for cutting aluminium plate.\nA good industrial vacuum cleaner.\nA high pressure water cleaner.\nA Dremel with various attachments \nA cordless soldering iron and a small gas torch.\nCirclip pliers - both inner and outer.\n\n\nI had a pneumatic socket wrench but hardly used it. \nA pneumatic rivet gun would have been an absolute blessing. \n\n

The International engine has a variable turbo from Garrett. I used a second hand 200 Tdi intercooler as it fitted well, in front of the radiator, where the original oil cooler had been. The new engine has an integrated oil cooler that uses the engine coolant. I had to fabricate a mounting for the intercooler, and it bolts directly to the chassis. I used silicon tubing for ducting the air to and from the intercooler. Cost a fortune but it's the best thing for the job.\n\n\n[img[Intercooler|images/new engine/Intercooler.jpg]]\n\nI have moved the air filter from it's original left hand position to the right hand side, beside the fuel intake. I got a good [[Donaldson|http://www.donaldson.com/en/engine/air/medium.html]] filter system that fitted the space perfectly. I've fitted it with a low pressure indicator so that I can tell when the filter needs changing.\n

25 April 2008\n [[Steering|Steering]] - New pic of mounting bracket for steering column.\n [[Exhaust|Exhaust]] - New pic of plate above silencer.\n [[Brakes|Brakes]] - New pic and some comments.\n\n20 April 2008\n [[Bodywork|Bodywork]] - New pic and text about inertia reel seatbelts. \n\n19 April 2008\n [[Engine|Engine]] - Updated link to International Engines web site.\n\n4 April 2008\n [[Steering|Steering]] - New pics and info on using a Sherpa PAS box.\n \n\n

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The 101 rims are 16 inch, two piece rims, riveted together.\n\nThe rims were sandblasted, degreased and repainted with Hammerite, which I found to be totally inadequate. Six months outdoors and they had all blistered! I will probably get them powder coated when I get a chance. There was some rust on the rear of the rims, and considerable pitting around the tire valve holes where water can get in.\n\n[img[Blasted rim|images/general/Blasted-rim.jpg]]\n\nI found some new Michelin 9.00 x 16 XLS tyres at an great price, provided I bought eleven of them! These are excellent general purpose off road tyres with a lot of steel mesh in them, including the side walls. It didn't take long to off load the extra six! These are tubeless tyres but the rims are not suitable for tubeless, so they have been fitted with Michelin inner tubes. They are considerably larger in diameter than the original bar grips.\n\n[img[Old and new tyres|images/general/Tyres-old-and-new.jpg]]\n\n\n

We needed a robust 4x4 vehicle which we could live in for a year and which I could maintain and repair myself. After looking at various options I narrowed my search to a Unimog or a Landy 101. Having read Tom Sheppard’s excellent ‘Vehicle Dependent Expedition Guide’ and learned of his Trans Sahara expedition using 101s in 1975, I settled for the Land Rover and began looking for an 101 Ambulance for sale. eBay proved useful and we were soon the owners of a British military ambulance!\n

Here's a [[PDF|images/electrical/Wiring Diagram 2.pdf]] of the wiring diagram. It's specific to a diesel vehicle, so it's not much use for petrol powered 101s.\n\nThe layout of most wiring diagrams is terrible so I did one I could read. There are a few things that you'll need to understand to read the diagram.\n\nYellow circles with a number in them are just a method of keeping the diagram uncluttered and without crossed lines. All circles with the same number are connected.\nMain Bus (MB) and Auxillary Bus (Aux Bus/AB) are power. Main bus (red) is always on. Aux Bus (blue) is on when the ignition key is turned.\nThe little coloured squares represent the colour of the wire in the 'trailer cable' I used to connect the main relay box to the dash and rear lights. There were 2 going from the relays to the dash, so some of the coloured squares have a 1 or a 2 in them.\nA square with an F in it is a fuse. The number underneath is the amp rating. Most fuses are in the relay box but there is another small fuse box under the dash.\n